First, I’d like to welcome any Get Rich Slowly readers still trickling in. Thanks again for visiting the site. There’s a quick summary of what the site’s about here. And subscribe to this site’s feed here.
Recently, I’ve written about allegedly shady practices at a popular mutual fund company, why many popular assumptions about stock returns might be false, and a big problem with target-date retirement funds.
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Onward.
Yesterday, I wrote a basic intro to bonds for J.D.’s site, and a follow-up, slightly more complicated post on how to screen for and choose bonds. 
Today, I’m going to address two areas:
1) How to build a bond portfolio or a bond ladder, and
2) How to actually buy a bond
How to build a bond portfolio
You probably already invest in mutual funds or might even have a portfolio of individual stocks. If so, you’re probably familiar with the concept of diversification. In short, you want to spread your investments among many types of securities to make sure that if any one of them gets hurt, your portfolio doesn’t unduly suffer.
Bond portfolios are no different. Here are the considerations you should have as you pick bonds.
1) Pick only high-grade bonds.
Yesterday, I defined this as a bond with a rating of A3 or higher by Moody’s. You might want to pick an even higher grade. Why? In the current environment, the ratings agencies have been downgrading bonds like crazy. Even Warren Buffett’s Berkshire Hathaway recently lost the highest investment grade rating. If you don’t have much to invest in bonds (Say, $200,000 or less), I would stay with bonds that have a AA rating or higher and whose companies are known as conservative, stable earners.
2) Diversify the maturity dates of your bonds.
Let’s say you’re saving for a son or daughter’s tuition payment that comes in 10 years. The highest yielding bonds that you see are probably ones that mature right around the time you need the money. But that doesn’t mean you should put all of your money in those bonds, even if they’re with highly rated companies.
A bond portfolio’s greatest risk actually isn’t that companies default. It’s that interest rates could rise before the bond matures. Imagine that you bought a 10-year bond yesterday at face value ($1,000) that yields 5%. Today, the Federal Reserve surprises the world by letting its target interest rates rise by 3 percentage points. Now, investors can find corporate bonds similar to the one you just bought that yield 8% instead of 5%. You can’t just sell your bond for $1,000 and reinvest the money. Any investor who buys the lower yielding bond will want to purchase it at below face value to compensate for the lower interest rate.
You’re holding your bonds to maturity. Small investors get ripped off when they try to sell bonds on the secondary market. So the only way that the change in interest rates really hurts you is that your $1,000 is tied up in a bond with a lower yield than what you could get now.
So, instead of buying $100,000 worth of 10-year bonds, the college saver might buy $10,000-worth of bonds that mature in 10 years, $10,000 that mature in 9 years, and each year until next year. That way, even if interest rates go up, you’ll always have bonds maturing whose principal you can reinvest in the higher yielding bonds.
Some folks argue that no one should invest in 10-year bonds right now, because interest rates are most certain to go up. I’d answer that the market should already be pricing those fears into the yields of 10-year bonds (that’s why they’re higher than one-year bonds). If you think you know better than the market, good for you. But for those building a simple bond ladder, since you’re holding bonds until maturity, you’re not going to get hurt if they’re right.
3) Diversify among industries in addition to companies.
You probably already gathered that you wouldn’t want to put all your money into bonds put out by one company. You should also consider spreading your bonds out among as many industries as possible. Your portfolio should not only have industrial manufacturers, but utilities, retailers, foodmakers, and so on.
Buying a bond
I’m just going to say this at the outset: Buying a bond is not as easy as it should be. Whereas stock and mutual fund platforms have gotten easier and easier over the last decade or so, bond buying still has silly impediments that the big brokers either can’t or don’t want to sort out. Until a few years ago small investors couldn’t even find out how much some bonds traded for! It’s gotten better, but not by much.
1) Use a broker who gets most of his business from bond trading. The reason for this is simple: The bonds you can buy will often be limited to what bonds the broker has in his inventory. If he doesn’t trade bonds often, he won’t control many bonds himself and won’t know good sources to find the bonds you’re looking for. As an alternate, you can use an online bond platform, like the one at E*Trade, which will aggregate the inventories of many different bond brokers. But when using a platform like that, you effectively pay two commissions. More on that later.
2)Start with “newly issued” bonds. Investors get better deals on bonds if they buy them right when the company is first asking to be lent money. As a small investor, if you can get in on a new issue, you’ll get a much better price on the bonds than if you bought them on the secondary market. Depending on how much money you have to invest, you might not be able to get in on many offerings, but it doesn’t hurt to ask.
3) Try to buy at least 10 bonds of the same company at once. The bigger the purchase of bonds you can make of a company, the better the price you’ll get. Some financial advisors say that an even better increment is $25,000 worth of bonds (about 25 bonds). If you try to purchase smaller amounts, you will get very poor prices.
4) Bond prices are negotiable. Don’t take your broker’s first offer. I can’t emphasize this enough, and this is the primary mistake I hear small investors make. Unlike a stock broker, bond broker’s don’t make a flat commission. In fact, they don’t specify their commission at all! Instead, they make money on the “spread” between what they can buy the bond for and what they sell it to you for. So a broker might buy a bond at a price that yields 6% but sell it to you at a price that yields 4%. His commission is difference in price that causes that 2% spread.
Brokers don’t disclose that difference. So it’s important that you come to the phone call armed with information. You can find the prices that bonds recently traded for here. Click on “Corporate Market At-a-glance” and search for the company whose bonds you’re considering or for the CUSIP (the bond’s id number) if you have that. Once you get to the bond you’re looking for, you should see a list of recent trades of that bond. 
The “price” on the screen is given in cents on the dollar. So a bond sold at “100.000″, went for $1,000. Under “size” you’ll see how many bonds were bought at once. So in the first line of the preceding image. An investor (or a bond broker, it’s difficult to tell) bought 10 bonds of GE at $1,000 each.
When you negotiate with your broker, try to get a yield as close to what you see at SIFMA’s website as possible. If he wants more than 1.5 percentage points as his commission, look for the bond elsewhere or try for a different bond. Honestly, a 1.5 percentage point hit on an investment-grade bond is already pretty high.
A note on online bond platforms: An online bond platform aggregates many bond brokers onto one site. That’s good because you have access to more inventory. But in exchange, you’ll probably pay a higher commission. The online broker will take the first cut, usually somewhere in the range of $1 per bond. The live-person broker will still earn a commission on the spread. I know E*Trade allows customers to make an offer on a bond and negotiate its price down. But some online brokers don’t let you do that.
5) Monitor your portfolio and reinvest bond payments. One of the biggest mistakes financial advisors tell me they see is that someone sets up their bond portfolio but doesn’t reinvest bond payments or even the bond’s principal as it matures. Unlike with a mutual fund, you can’t instruct your broker to simply reinvest your bond payments. Brokerage accounts generally pay extremely low interest rates. So even though your bond yields 5%, if its bond payments simply sit in the account, your portfolio’s yield will be less.
If you’ve set up a bond ladder by having bonds mature regularly (such as once a year), revisit your portfolio at least that often to find bonds to reinvest in and to keep that income stream coming. Someone who is investing in bonds for income and who wants to keep an average maturity of 5 years, would want to buy a 10-year bond every time one of his bonds comes due. That way, he’ll always have a bond coming due in the next year.
Phew, I hope this post, the two others made yesterday, and the story in Money have given you at least a basic understanding of how bonds work and how to build a portfolio. As you can imagine, there’s more to learn and entire books have been written on the subject. I will recommend two, whose authors I’ve spoken to extensively:
Bonds: The Unbeaten Path to Secure Investment Growth by Hildy and Stan Richelson, and
The Bond Bible by Marilyn Cohen (this one is a little older)
Thanks for reading and hope you come back tomorrow — when I won’t be talking about bonds.
- Joe Light